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Does your skin feel dehydrated right after cleansing? Are you prone to red patches or rashes? When it comes to solving your specific skin care challenges, salon facials have come a long way over the years.
“Facials have evolved [into] really results-oriented treatments,” says Sloane Avendano, esthetics supervisor at The Fountain Spa, which has locations in Ramsey and Hackensack. And while nearly all follow the same general steps—cleanse, steam, exfoliate, massage, mask and moisturize—the products used for each should be carefully tailored to your skin’s needs.
“A carbon-copy facial is exactly what you don’t want,” adds Edison-based esthetician Melissa Astone Caporale, who has been practicing clinical esthetics for 16 years. “Your esthetician should offer a facial designed specifically for your skin type and your skin condition.” Here’s what they recommend:
Dry Skin
Best treatment: a moisture-boosting facial
Why it works: “Dry skin is lacking in both oil and water, so we want to attract both those ingredients to the skin,” says Caporale, who suggests choosing a facial that features super-humectant hyaluronic acid as a major player, which binds 1,000 times its weight in water to the skin. Your esthetician should also apply a lipid-rich vitamin mask or serum to restore the skin’s natural moisture balance.
Try it: Glycolic Radiance Facial at Crystal Springs Reflections Spa, Hamburg; Hydrafacial at Ellan Laser Med Spa, East Brunswick; The Woodhouse Hydrafacial at The Woodhouse Day Spa with locations in Montclair, Red Bank and Summit
Oily Skin
Best treatment: a sebum-fighting facial
Why it works: The natural oils produced by your follicles, called sebum, are essential for keeping skin hydrated. But when they go into overdrive, the end result is oily skin. “Nothing is going to stop an oil gland from producing oil—that’s genetically pre-determined by our parents. But we certainly can control oil superficially,” says Caporale who favors salicylic acid for treating this issue because it absorbs the oily sebum our skin produces, and acts as an anti-inflammatory to soothe breakout-prone skin. Kaolin clay is another option since it draws out oil and impurities without over-drying skin.
Try it: Problem Rx Facial at Bangz Salon and Wellness Spa, Montclair; Acne Facial at Lana’s Place Organic Day Spa, Cliffside Park; Deep Cleanse Facial at Spavia Day Spa with locations in Cedar Knolls, Moorestown and Sparta
Sensitive Skin
Best treatment: a botanical facial
Why it works: “With sensitive skin, it’s important to bring it back to basics and use products with minimal ingredient lists,” says Caporale. Your facial’s steps will remain the same, but your esthetician should swap in milder, biocompatible alternatives, such as a lactic acid or fruit enzyme exfoliators and masks that contain soothing ingredients like organic aloe.
Try it: Calm and Balance Facial Therapy at Balance Face and Body Wellness, Long Valley; Skin Soother Facial at Depasquale The Spa, Morris Plains; Organic Renewal Hylunia Facial at The Urban Muse, Denville
Combination Skin
Best treatment: a dual-zoned facial
Why it works: If your skin is prone to over-producing oil in the T-zone over your forehead and nose but is excessively dry in other areas, you might want to take a targeted approach to your facial. In other words, this means treating each area individually. “If you’re oily in the T-zone we can spot treat with an activated charcoal treatment, which absorbs oil from the skin, and apply a hydrating balancing mask on the cheek and chin area,” says Caporale.
Try it: Customized Facial at Facial Reality Spa and Salon, Westfield; Customized Facial at Reflections Center for Skin & Body, Livingston or Martinsville; Signature Facial at Serenity Day Spa, Jersey City
Mature Skin
Best treatment: a collagen-boosting facial
Why it works: “The biggest concern with mature skin is a breakdown of collagen,” says Caporale, who explains that the body’s ability to produce new fibers begins to decrease by 1-2 percent every year after age 30. That’s why every anti-aging facial should include components that boost collagen growth. “Ask for a collagen mask, which helps strengthen skin’s elasticity and repairs damaged tissue, making skin appear firmer, softer and more youthful,” recommends Avendano. Anti-aging active ingredients, such as plant-based stem cells or medical-grade vitamin C, should also be part of your treatment. “They nourish the skin, so after the treatment skin will be plump, smooth and glowing,” says Caporale.
Try it: Alpha-Therapy Collagen Facial at The Fountain Spa, Hackensack or Ramsey; Time-Defying Facial at Koi Spa Salon, Princeton; Anti-Aging Facial at Salon Frasca Day Spa, Springfield
Katharina Lyklar has been writing about beauty for 15 years. She lives and works in New York City.